Churchill: The Last Town of the Bay

The town of Churchill is located on the western shore of Hudson Bay in Canada, and is renowned as the "Polar Bear Capital of the World."

Summary: Churchill, Manitoba, is known as the "Polar Bear Capital of the World." But beyond the bears, Churchill offers a rich tapestry of experiences.
Visitors can witness the Northern Lights, explore the unique subarctic environment, and learn about indigenous cultures. The town's history is tied to the fur trade, and trapping traditions are still passed down through generations.
Churchill's architecture blends abandoned Hudson Bay Company structures with indigenous influences. Graffiti art has become a notable aspect of the town's landscape, showcasing local stories and spirit.
Churchill is a place where ancient and new cultures coexist, and where an old way of life clashes with the modern world. It stands as a symbol of the delicate balance between human history and the preservation of the Arctic ecosystem. It is truly one of the last towns on the edge of the Arctic Ocean, offering visitors an unforgettable experience at the crossroads of nature, culture, and history...

Hudson Bay from the air

First impressions on Churchill

One of the main attractions drawing visitors (including me, a biologist and eco-guide in search of adventure) to this remote town, is the annual movement of polar bears. They roam along the shore as they wait for the bay to freeze over, providing them access to their primary food source: the seals living deep on the arctic ice. But as my visit progressed, I realized that what this town, where no roads get to � only trains or planes � has to offer goes beyond these amazing animals on its quest. An old way of life clashing with the Western world, ancient and new cultures coexisting, eclectic architecture with graffiti art so big that you can see from a plane, and the majestic Northern lights.

But yes, polar bears!

The largest land predators on Earth gather near Churchill in October and November, awaiting the freeze-up of the sea ice. They are drawn to Churchill due to the ideal conditions in which the town is settled: at the edge of the bay, the sea ice forms creating a platform from which polar bears can venture out onto the frozen expanses, giving them access to seal breathing holes and exploring for freeding grounds. According to recent scientific studies, we now know that polar bears populations differ around the arctic territories according to sea ice dynamics and how they use it.

The ice throughout Hudson Bay melts completely by the end of July-August and does not refreeze until early November. This means that bears from this area must come and stay ashore for about 3-4 months. Churchill region is also one of the biggest denning areas in the world, so moms and cubs are commonly seen, as well as sparring behavior between males: reinforcing hierarchy and "showing off" basically. During this period on land, female bears are not actively hunting (there is not much to hunt by then also), therefore they must survive on fat reserves that they have built up. So it is amazing to see these white giants...munching on grasses or algae with a bored expression of missing real food. This annual �migration� from sea-ice to land (for is not a migration by definition) has turned Churchill into a prime location for polar bear watching. The congregation of bears is a unique spectacle, offering wildlife enthusiasts and researchers an incredible opportunity to observe and study these majestic creatures in their natural habitat.

A first encounter

Curious and unafraid polar bear mother and calf

Buggie into the sunset...

Responsible Tourism

To provide for the growing interest in polar bear tourism, Churchill has developed responsible and sustainable eco-tourism practices. Tundra buggies, specially designed vehicles with elevated viewing platforms, allow tourists to safely observe polar bears from a close but secure distance without disturbing their natural behavior. Local guides and experts accompany these excursions, providing valuable insights into polar bear behavior, biology, and conservation efforts. The feeling of being so deep into the nature of the tundra, resonated in my mind with the fact that our feet never touched ground. Everything looked as if we were visiting a space station, in one of the most infinite landscapes on Earth.

In addition to the thrilling polar bear encounters, Churchill offers visitors a chance to witness the northern lights, explore the unique subarctic flora and fauna, and learn about the indigenous cultures that have thrived in this challenging environment for generations. Its history is closely tied to the fur trade and trapping, dating back to the early days of European exploration and settlement in North America. The fur trade was a crucial economic activity in the area, and indigenous peoples were involved in trapping to sustain their livelihoods. While the fur trade is not central to the economy of Churchill today, trapping traditions, skills, and knowledge may be passed down through generations, contributing to the preservation of cultural heritage in the community, and is reflected proudly in their art and souvenir shops. As Paul, one of the local trappers that gave us a presentation about his nation's traditions mentioned, it's important to note that attitudes towards trapping have evolved over time, with increased awareness of animal welfare and conservation.

Not all about bears and lights
As I walked around town looking for the only supermarket (in which you can buy from dairy products to clothing and ski-doos), the feeling of remoteness could not abandon my mind. The architectural context, influenced by its remote location, climate, and history, mixes the Hudson Bay Company's abandoned structures and warehouses with the influence of indigenous community elements, such as ornaments or big white tipis where they perform rituals and festivities. Regular houses respond to the specific needs of the environment (steep roofs to shed snow, raised foundations to prevent heat loss) and at almost every block, I need to stop to take photos of the incredible graffiti art you can find in front doors or two-story building walls. In this town of roughly 1000 inhabitants, graffiti has become a notable aspect of Churchill's artistic landscape, as a manifestation of local community spirit and stories of true cultural identity.

Graffitti Art is

one of the modern art

expresions you can find in Churchill.

In the end, more surprises than expected

I enjoyed a trip like no other!

Churchill, with its extraordinary combination of natural wonders and commitment to responsible tourism, stands as a symbol of the delicate balance between human history and activity and the preservation of the Arctic ecosystem. Polar bears call this region home, and we all can call it one of the last towns on the edge of the Arctic Ocean.

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Weather in Churchill is one of the big questions, so as you read this travel Journal, here is a sample of what it will be like today:

About the Author

Luciana Motta

Luciana was born in Rosario, Argentina, and got her degree in Biological Sciences at the University of Buenos Aires.
Before getting her PhD on biodiversity of aquatic insects of mountain lakes in Patagonia, she worked for 3 years for the Program of Environmental Management and Tourism of the Argentinean Antarctic Direction, as a scientific assistant and environmental officer in antarctic scientific stations.
Currently, she lives in Bariloche (Patagonia) researching cross-ecosystem effects of non-native species on wetland communities. Every once in a while, pauses research for a bit to go diving, and to be an environmental interpreter in naturalism trips to Africa and Antarctica.

Luciana is our resident Biologist and Outreach Manager at The Polar Travel Company

TPTC BLOG | Arctic

Churchill: The Last Town of the Bay

TPTC BLOG | Arctic

Churchill: The Last Town of the Bay

Churchill: The Last Town of the Bay

First impressions on Churchill

But yes, polar bears!

Responsible Tourism

In the end, more surprises than expected

Luciana Motta